Proper order for connecting battery to modem

[Shawn Billings]

I'll tell a couple of stories on myself in hopes that users can avoid these pitfalls. I've had to replace the 5amp fuse in the external battery harness twice now.

The first time was a result of plugging the battery harness into the same charger used for the Triumph LS. Not a good idea. Use the supplied external battery charger = Good idea.

The second time was last night. I had the modem cable plugged into the battery and was connecting the 15pin cable into the modem. It was dark and I could see the tiniest of sparks as I was plugging the cable into the modem port. At this point the modem showed no signs of power. Upon inspection of the fuse, I discovered that it was blown. So, my thought is that it is best to plug the 15pin into the modem first and use the SAE connection to connect and disconnect power.

 

[Kelly Bellis]

Shawn - Which radio were you able to get the tiniest of sparks? Maybe this discussion will spark John to share his story

Since we're close to Halloween, the most scariest story I ever heard of was from a nameless surveyor/friend who powered up his modem without the antenna attached to it. It did not end well for the modem or relations with the dealer that had sold him the used equipment

 

[Shawn Billings]

I was using the 404BT.

 

[Jim Frame]

"The first time was a result of plugging the battery harness into the same charger used for the Triumph LS"

I'm confused -- I have 2 chargers, one that came with the LS and one with the T2, and they both have the same part number.

Something I haven't tried yet but would like to be able to do is plug the units into a car cigarette lighter socket or a generic 12-volt battery. Any reason not to do this?

"a nameless surveyor/friend who powered up his modem without the antenna attached to it"

On that note, I've become aware of just how easy it is to inadvertently turn on the HPT401BT. The push-button power switch can get activated way too easily in a transport case, and since it's normally going to be boxed up without the antenna on it, this has ominous implications. Even casual handling can bump the switch on without warning.

Is the radio burnout a matter of component heating, i.e. does it have to be on for several minutes before damage occurs? (I bumped mine on for a few seconds a few days ago without the antenna attached, but haven't tested it yet to see if there's a problem.)

 

[Shawn Billings]

I'm confused -- I have 2 chargers, one that came with the LS and one with the T2, and they both have the same part number.

You don't have an external battery with the 401. The battery is internal, so this won't affect you, unless you plug it into an external power source, in which case I'd recommend plugging the 15pin connector into the modem first then plugging the SAE into the external power source. My problem was specific to charging the external battery and connecting the external battery to the 404. The external battery that Javad supplies doesn't use the same charger as the LS/T2, and it seems undesirable to connect the SAE to the power source first and then the 15pin to the modem as it might spark and blow the battery harness fuse.

Something I haven't tried yet but would like to be able to do is plug the units into a car cigarette lighter socket or a generic 12-volt battery. Any reason not to do this?
I have used alligator clamps tied to SAE connector to connect the radio modem and the LS to a car battery without issue. I have not yet done this with the T2 (as the long battery life hasn't required it).

 

[Kelly Bellis]

"The first time was a result of plugging the battery harness into the same charger used for the Triumph LS"

I'm confused -- I have 2 chargers, one that came with the LS and one with the T2, and they both have the same part number.

The confusion comes from the fact that we're dealing with two different radios and two different chargers for charging their respective batteries in this thread - see page 321 and 322 in the Users Guide to the Triumph LS - website edition v20140923 for a visual. The HPT401BT's charger, the Triumph-2 and Triumph-LS all share the same charger (22-570101-02).

"The first time was a result of plugging the battery harness into the same charger used for the Triumph LS"
"a nameless surveyor/friend who powered up his modem without the antenna attached to it"

On that note, I've become aware of just how easy it is to inadvertently turn on the HPT401BT. The push-button power switch can get activated way too easily in a transport case, and since it's normally going to be boxed up without the antenna on it, this has ominous implications. Even casual handling can bump the switch on without warning.

Is the radio burnout a matter of component heating, i.e. does it have to be on for several minutes before damage occurs? (I bumped mine on for a few seconds a few days ago without the antenna attached, but haven't tested it yet to see if there's a problem.)

I hear you quite clearly on this Jim as I about had a heart attack when I did the same thing minutes after opening the box! The HPT401BT power button's position I think could be improved by recessing it as the unit will power itself on if left standing on its end for 5-seconds. The real danger is only present if your Triumph-2 or other Bluetooth enabled receiver is on and within the modem's listening range. It's for that reason it is advised to keep the antenna on the radio while charging, though it isn't actually required, just a safeguard. If the antenna is not on the radio, and it begins transmission, all power intended for the transmission gets redirected internally and the board gets fried. I don't know how much time it takes for irreparable damage to occur, though I bet there are others here that can tell us. I just hope I never find out the hard way!

 

[Jim Frame]

I haven't tested the range of the 401BT yet, but I'm generally aware that more power equals more range. Will participants in the PLS trial program be offered an opportunity to upgrade their radios at time of purchase?

 

[Kelly Bellis]

I haven't tested the range of the 401BT yet, but I'm generally aware that more power equals more range. Will participants in the PLS trial program be offered an opportunity to upgrade their radios at time of purchase?

Good question Jim! and a follow up question for Mr. Glutting, can we trade in and buy up?

 

[Kelly Bellis]

I had the modem cable plugged into the battery and was connecting the 15-pin cable into the modem. It was dark and I could see the tiniest of sparks as I was plugging the cable into the modem port. At this point the modem showed no signs of power. Upon inspection of the fuse, I discovered that it was blown. So, my thought is that it is best to plug the 15-pin into the modem first and use the SAE connection to connect and disconnect power.

Haha on me! I had the exact same thing happen last night:

My normal routine has always been as you outlined Shawn since this spring but my current round of pairing tests has me messing around with (2) different radios and I got lazy

 

[Shawn Billings]

Those five amp fuses can be difficult to find. I've bought three multipacks for the one five amp fuse in them. This is because (until I figured out the best sequence) I kept blowing them at night and had to go to Wal-Mart to find a replacement. Next time I'm at the auto parts store, I plan to buy a few to keep in my kit bag.

 

[Kelly Bellis]

Those five amp fuses can be difficult to find. I've bought three multipacks for the one five amp fuse in them. This is because (until I figured out the best sequence) I kept blowing them at night and had to go to Wal-Mart to find a replacement. Next time I'm at the auto parts store, I plan to buy a few to keep in my kit bag.

Our local NAPA store has them in a 5-pack for $3.49

 

[Robert P Stenerson]

It's starting to get cold, so I want to use the external battery to supplement power to the our HPT401BT, but looking at the manual I don't see a solid green light when I hook up the external battery to the DB25 Power Data connector on the radio. When I do turn the radio by pressing the power button for four seconds, the power light turns on with a solid green, then the radio connects with BT blue light solid, then power light starts flashes green every 4secs like it's using the internal battery, which I think defeats the purpose of hooking up the bigger external battery in the colder weather.

Am I missing something in my setup, or do I need to configure the radio to look for external power on power up instead of using internal battery?

Thanks,
Rory

 

[Shawn Billings]

The radio recharges from the battery, it also powers from the battery simultaneously. It's possible to start work with a radio plugged into external power with a nearly dead internal battery, work all day and end the day with a fully charged internal battery.

 

[Robert P Stenerson]

Hi Shawn,

Okay, I was hoping that was the case. The reason I'm questioning it is because last week I was out all day on a cold survey day surveying for five hours (32F) with the Extenal Battery Pack hooked up, when I got back to the office and hooked up the external battery's charger, it showed just a green float charge (like external battery had a full charge, i.e. it hadn't been discharged.) So, I shouldn't be concerned that I am not seeing a steady green light (charging from external source)?

 

[Shawn Billings]

I see now what you are saying. Something isn't right... What external battery are you using, Rory? Could the fuse be bad?

 

[Robert P Stenerson]

Hi Shawn,

Well the fuse looks kinda dodgy, not obvious burnt out but the filament appears severed. I'll change that out and give it a go. Thanks.

Rory

 

[Robert P Stenerson]

Hi Shawn,

Yep, it was a blown fuse on the battery terminal lead cable. I went out to the auto parts store and bought a pack of 5amp blade fuses. Sure enough, when plugged the battery charger directly into the battery lead cable, I heard a snap and had to replace the another blown fuse.

I checked the charger and battery lead cables' wiring polarity, and all appeared correct. The eureka moment came when I installed the SAE extension cable between the battery lead cable and the charger lead cable, then everything worked right with the charger and no fuses being blown. Sure enough with the extension cable between the battery lead cable and the short DB25 data/power pigtail cable the radio appeared to connect with a steady and blue light.

So the moral of the story for me was: Always use a SAE extension cable between the two end cable's. (This might be a good note in the next revision to the User Guide.)

 

[Shawn Billings]

I haven't needed to have any extension cable between them, myself. That's curious... I'm glad you figured out a resolution.

 

[Robert P Stenerson]

You're plugging your charger lead cable directly to the battery lead cable with no in-between SAE to SAE cable?

 

[Matt Johnson]

An SAE extension cable shouldn't make any difference on the current being drawn through the cable and wouldn't affect rather the fuse is blown or not. When the fuse is blowing did you have the radio powered on or off when you connected the battery?