Radio Antenna Transport

[Jim Campi]

One idea that strikes me, and assuming that your primary intent is separation for the purpose of preventing scratches, would be to eliminate the rubbers altogether and replace the hex-head steel nuts with nylon nuts.

I like your Allen Bolt Head solution better than what I am using for the two studs. Javad's bracket, which I bought and expect to arrive next week sometime will be used in product shots, but it doesn't feature the key-way. The Javad bracket is intended as a permanent fixture. If I make another one, I might explore using sheet aluminum for the bracket and the same studs as you've chosen, but I'll probably forego the hex-head nut and rubber washer. The other part of the mix for my next design is going to be how I get the fan arranged and mounted. The HPT435BT requires a fan. One solution is illustrated here.

Hi Kelly,

I installed the rubber washers in an attempt to keep the housing water tight. The allen bolt heads work well as studs for quickly placing and removing the radio from the bracket and the machine nuts offset the radio from the bracket to minimize unsightly wear and tear. The nuts would be irrelevant for permanent installation of the bracket. I now think I will remove the rubber washers and use Loc-tite.

My view on all this is to make the equipment as efficient and portable as possible. This is why I relocated all the electronics to a single case and mount the radio on the same rover rod as the T2 when possible.

I have also given some thought to a radio bracket that is hinged at both 90 degree angles that would "close" or "fold flat" for convenient storage in my tripod bag. I may try this when some time opens up...

 

[Kelly Bellis]

I liked the simplicity and convenience of your having the 1-watt radio on the same pole as the receiver, but I see some draw backs too. If the rig is on a small project and flat terrain, then transmissions under one watt and from one meter off the ground may work beautifully. If the rig is on a project covering a larger project area and/ or hilly terrain, raising the power output and the height of the transmitting antenna will be necessary.

Last spring I asked the good doctor about closeness/ proximity; the spatial relationship of the receiver to the UHF transmission source. Here's what he said:

 

[Jim Campi]

Hi Kelly,

I agree that locating on a single pole is really only workable for small sites.

I appreciate you bringing up the issue of xyz separation between a UHF source and the GPS receiver.

When I read the original set-up guide for the base receiver, my understanding was that several feet for a 1 watt radio would decrease interference. Subsequently I learned that it's typical to locate a 1 watt transmitter and GPS receiver in the same package. The LS is an example of this configuration. In this case the separation is less than a few inches.

Is the separation the doc refers to above associated with UHF-GPS or UHF-UHF signals?

 

[Matt Johnson]

Last spring I asked the good doctor about closeness/ proximity; the spatial relationship of the receiver to the UHF transmission source. Here's what he said:

Kelly, I just noticed that there is a typo here. It should say 35 watts not 45.

 

[Jim Frame]

Subsequently I learned that it's typical to locate a 1 watt transmitter and GPS receiver in the same package. The LS is an example of this configuration. In this case the separation is less than a few inches.

The LS contains a UHF receiver, but no UHF transmitter of which I'm aware. It does have a Bluetooth transmitter, but that puts out a lot less than 1 watt.

 

[Jim Frame]

Here's the quick-and-dirty transport arrangement I've rigged for my antenna assembly:

It's just a cardboard box fitted with packing foam that's been cut to accommodate the bracket that slips into the top on the mast. (The carabiner is used in place of a lock when I don't need theft protection. It secures the bracket to the mast. )

 

[Jim Campi]

The LS contains a UHF receiver, but no UHF transmitter of which I'm aware. It does have a Bluetooth transmitter, but that puts out a lot less than 1 watt.

Jim, I'm not certain but fairly confident that the LS has an internal 1 watt UHF radio (when I ordered my unit I could choose LTE or UHF unless I wanted both for an additional fee of $1000). If you look at the spec sheet it indicates UHF Radio Modem, Base Power Output 1 Watt. I'm also pretty sure that the LS can serve as 1 watt base with no additional components necessary on the base side other than a tripod.

 

[Shawn Billings]

Yes the LS radio is a transceiver.

 

[Jim Frame]

Yes, I forgot about the base capability of the LS.

 

[Kelly Bellis]

Kelly, I just noticed that there is a typo here. It should say 35 watts not 45.

MJ - I think Javad was just trying to illustrate the concept, that it wasn't a typo, and that 45 watts was his intent. If however he tells me otherwise, I'll be happy to edit it to any number he says.

 

[Bob Farley]

Has anyone had a problem with the coax breaking out of the antenna base on the 35 watt radio. Mine did yesterday and it has never seen any of the storage & transport solutions shown above. It has lived it entire life being setup directly from the survey vehicle (Inside a ford expedition in a milk crate style storage box). I am going to run it by the local radio shop to see if they can get me going again.
Thanks

 

[Kelly Bellis]

Has anyone had a problem with the coax breaking out of the antenna base on the 35 watt radio. Mine did yesterday and it has never seen any of the storage & transport solutions shown above. It has lived it entire life being setup directly from the survey vehicle (Inside a ford expedition in a milk crate style storage box). I am going to run it by the local radio shop to see if they can get me going again.
Thanks

Please post some photos showing what failed.

 

[Bob Farley]

Kelly,
I think I uploaded the pics correctly. My radio has never had the range that everyone else had (about 1 mile); I am now wondering if this may have been a contributing factor.
Thanks
Bob

 

[Kelly Bellis]

Ouch!

Give Michael Glutting a shout and ask if the broken one could be exchanged for a new one [14-578117-06].

 

[Bob Farley]

Went by the 2 way radio guy yesterday and he got me going with some quick soldering. He gave me a small plastic cable clamp to attach the coax to the edge of the ground plane to prevent a repeat. I will post a pic when put it on later today.
Thanks for the help

 

[Bob Farley]

Here is the picture of the clamp to keep the cable from breaking out of the housing.

 

[David Neeley]

I carry the antenna in a padded case from an old level and the radio, flat plane, cable, tribrach and power cord fit in my old yellow 5700 pelican very well I use a frost pin with bracket and two pieces of EMT as a mast. The radio hangs on a piece of flat steel on a piece of threadall with nuts to splice the EMT together

 

[Kelly Bellis]

Jim,
I have a case like yours but I need to purchase new foam so I can cut out for the equipment. Do you know where I can purchase new foam.

Hi Doug,
Recently, I bought some foam (Eggcrate Charcoal Regular Foam) from the Foam Factory to augment the foam that comes with the Javad Rugged Radio Case. Since all three radios each have separate mounting brackets, and the HPT435BT also the fan, the depths of the cuts as well as the placements of the three radios took a little forethought. I laid out a cutting template and cut the sheets of foam individually using an electrical carving knife once a starter hole was made. I used a sharp chisel at the corners of the cuts to give the knife a clean place to start. Then lastly, I used some 3M 77 spray adhesive on each sheet's face to help keep it all in place. The laser labels for the call letters and my company logo were printed on some very nice stock: Avery® White WeatherProof™ Labels for Laser Printers 5524, 3-1/3" x 4" - avoid finger prints before printing.

 

[toivo1037]

I just received my system, and have not even gotten it into the field yet. Like you folks, I am looking at how to safely store all of the components. I purchased the Triumph-1Ms, and the Javad case, along with the 35w radio, and the longer whip antenna with ground plane. With my old Topcon system I had room for the antenna and cables to be coiled up inside a slot I cut in the receiver case. That will not be possible with this case and system. Borrowing from all of the ideas in this thread, what I think I am going to do is:

I have an antenna mast tripod in a carry bag. I will remove the antenna from its base, and place it inside a PVC pipe, and put that inside the bag to carry it - that should keep that all safe. I have a slot for the 35w radio in the receiver case, but the foam was not cut for the newly required fan assy, so I will have to cut the foam to fit the radio/fan assy ( hope it will all fit). The radio cable will live with the battery. That leaves the antenna base w/cable and ground plane. I really like the plastic clip idea, so that will happen, but that means the base will have to stay with the plane. I will see if I can carve a slot for that to also live in the receiver case, then I should be all good to go - That may sacrifice the area for the tribrach. A separate idea would be put the antenna base/plane and radio in its own small case, as I am planning on utilizing the 35w as a repeater for the Triumph-1m internal 1w, and it would not have to live with the receiver case. I will post a pic when I am all up and running.

OK, with that all said, This is my first experience with a ground plane. Michael sold me on it and the bigger antenna as a way to get more range in the woods, something I had problems with in my old system. Is the overall exact shape and size of the plane critically important? (I may want to trim some off so it fits in the case better) What would happen if there was a slot in the metal? Can anything be mounted under it? Would plastic work instead?

Here is my idea: I want to make a slot in the plate so that the cable can be routed through it without kinking it. Then I want to mount a inner ring, and another rim, and create a psudo bobbin so that I can wind the cable around it for storage without kinking it. At $50 for the Javad plate, I will probably try it with some other material first. The big thing would be getting the cable routed through a slot without kinking it. With the cable all wound around the ground plane bobbin, it should be all safe, and fairly compact.

 

[Matt Johnson]

My suggestion is to just get some cable clamps to use for storage of the cable. I bought these http://amzn.com/B00ERAWWV4 and they work great for this purpose.