Help for new Jtip user

Darren Clemons

Darren Clemons

Well-Known Member
I just received my new Jtip today and have printed out the user manual. Installation, paring and calibration (with a little help) went fine. Right out of the gate I'm already impressed with just the "standard" use of finding objects around other metals such as chain link posts, steel posts, etc. The tones makes it very easy to pinpoint nails and such that I had Scott "hide" around areas behind my office.

I'm sure it will be like most things and just take some time to get used to how to "read" the data and use it to store points, but that may not be that necessary on most things we do. It seems, right out of the box, just using it to easily pinpoint an area to dig, then simply finding the corner and shooting it may be the 90% use of this for us. Reading the graphs in 2D or 3D or seeing the shape of the object will only be needed in extreme circumstances. We don't have many locations where our corner is going to be under concrete or pavement. Sometimes we'll have some buried deep in gravel roads where this will be a huge help.

I'm sure all the factory settings are set that way for a reason, but for anyone who's had some experience is there any, what I like to call, "need to know" information? I think we found one very quick - a small bit of loctite on the tip, it really comes off easy!

Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated! This is obviously going to be just another feather in the cap of Javad - something else revolutionary that NO one else has! ;) Man I'm glad I'm a part of this system!
 
J

John Evers

Well-Known Member
5PLS
Darren,

My opinion is that it the most important button is the bottom left sensor selection button. I like to use "S" which means the bottom "single" sensor. I also use Auto Polarity. This will give the J-Tip maximum ability to detect the signal.

When I am in a magnetically noisy area, I really like the "D" Differential mode. This mode functions by reading the difference between the two sensor chips. It is much more selective, and can provide a tighter response area. This is not technically the same as turning the sensitivity down on a Schoenstedt, but does in a way achieve the same result.

The other thing to remember is when you switch between these modes, you will want to press the "Clear" button.

The following applies to "S" mode, the Clear button can be though of as calibrating to the area you are in. It is intended that the user press Clear while, while the tip is not near a magnetic field. This provides the best sensitivity. However, it you are near a magnetic field such as a fence, pressing Clear resets your baseline of sorts, and you will now be ignoring the fence.

As simple as the J-Tip is...right out of the box. It is an amazing little device, and I am confident we will be learning tricks with it for a while to come.

I should add that I only use XYZ axis for the direction.
 
Darren Clemons

Darren Clemons

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tips John. So around the typical old fence with barbed wire and steel posts, looking for that elusive little 1/2" rebar, the D mode is the way to go. These spots, I feel, will be what pays for this little magic wand. How many times have we spent forever digging, scratching and pulling up piece after piece of old fence. After we're done it literally looks like an entire flock of turkeys just passed through!
 
J

John Evers

Well-Known Member
5PLS
Darren,

Yes D mode in the scenario you describe.

However, do not count out what can be done in Single Sensor mode, being near the object, and pressing Clear. This resets the baseline magnetic reference to where you are, and is a very powerful capability.

In D mode, clear does not serve the above purpose. In D mode, (it is my current understanding) it is intended that Clear has no purpose, other than beginning the data set for the 2d and 3d imaging.
 
Adam

Adam

Well-Known Member
5PLS
John Evers said:
Darren,

Yes D mode in the scenario you describe.

However, do not count out what can be done in Single Sensor mode, being near the object, and pressing Clear. This resets the baseline magnetic reference to where you are, and is a very powerful capability.

In D mode, clear does not serve the above purpose. In D mode, (it is my current understanding) it is intended that Clear has no purpose, other than beginning the data set for the 2d and 3d imaging.
Click to expand...
I agree with John 100 percent. Only thing I can add is I like open after zero and no tone less than 1.6. and sine wave for negative.
 
John Thompson

John Thompson

Well-Known Member
Is it possible to automatically turn the speaker volume up to max when the JTip is connected, then when it's disconnected, restore it to what is was before?
 
David M. Simolo

David M. Simolo

Well-Known Member
I have used it as a mini locator in just my hand for the audible signal response. I don't think any pole needs to be part of the equation. You would need to remain within Bluetooth range of the LS unit itself as well as be able to hear it.

As far as the visual screen outputs on the LS you would have to be on the same prism pole the LS is on.

I tend to carry mine in a vest pocket to use as needed if I can't see an iron I am looking for. Those who attach it to the prism pole get many more features out of its use.
 
J

jtstrickland

New Member
I was wondering if the ferrous components of a prism pole, and also a bipod, would adversely affect the performance of it.
The Javad LS pole and the J-pod appear to be a polymer type metal, and maybe not ferrous. While I like the compactness of these, they are not satisfactory to either my helper or myself, and we feel they are inferior to a standard pole and bipod when it comes to speed and ease of use. However, if the J-tip won't work properly with them, then it probably won't go into our toolkit.
If I didn't have a collapsible schonstedt, though, it might be worth it to use like you do because of the compactness of it, but I had hoped to make use of the other features.
Thanks for the help.
 
J

John Evers

Well-Known Member
5PLS
I will take some photos to explain my solution which works very well for a little me later today. I use a two piece carbon fiber pole with a bipod and a J-Tip. I am more than pleased with it. I only use the collapsible mono-pod for a few types of work.
 
Phillip Lancaster

Phillip Lancaster

Active Member
Mine stays on the standard javad pole 100% of the time. To me it's worth every penny. It's my backup right now. Shacking the dependency of the schonstedt is the problem I'm working with right now.
 
J

jtstrickland

New Member
Do you just take the steel tip and last section off the J-pole and replace it with the J-tip?
It looks like the length will change, i.e. be be longer. I will be probably be replacing or adding to the top washer, also, with a quick release of some type, so the length will have to be adjusted for me, anyway.
It also looks like the brass tip on the J-tip needs a shot of lok-tite as someone said earlier.
 
Adam

Adam

Well-Known Member
5PLS
jtstrickland said:
Do you just take the steel tip and last section off the J-pole and replace it with the J-tip?
It looks like the length will change, i.e. be be longer. I will be probably be replacing or adding to the top washer, also, with a quick release of some type, so the length will have to be adjusted for me, anyway.
It also looks like the brass tip on the J-tip needs a shot of lok-tite as someone said earlier.
Click to expand...
Yes, it has the same threads as the standard steel tip. The height difference can be entered in the vertical height offset box so the pole is still read directly.

I like to us my jtip attached to a jpod leg so it is separate from the LS. Many times I am observing a point while I'm searching. Also the jpod leg can be extended all the way out for searching in thick briars or under leyland cypress trees.
 
J

John Evers

Well-Known Member
5PLS
Here is what I did to modify a standard pole, and my bi-pod to work with the J-Tip.
On every pole I have seen, when you remove the pointed tip, and expose the 5/8"x11 threads, there is a perfectly centered hole already drilled in the end of the pole. I found this hole to be a suitable size to be able to drill out, and tap threads which will accept the J-Tip. The other needed item is the brass nut. This serves the purpose of covering and protecting the 5/8"x11 threads at the bottom of the pole, but primarily is a bearing surface for the J-Tip to seat against. I use brass for its non magnetic properties, along with no corrosion problems. Because I am not an expert at drilling and tapping, and aluminum is rather soft, my threads are not perfect and have a very small amount of looseness. This is not a problem because of the brass nut which serves as a bearing surface ensures that the J-Tip is true to the pole. The threads are effectively perfectly centered though, because the pole came with an already centered hole. At this point, I must add that I purchased the brass nut at hardware store. They had 10 such nuts in the drawer. Only 3 of the 10 were perfect, in that the surface of each end of the nut had been machined parallel. You will need to test this nut by installing the J-Tip with the nut in place. When you rotate the rod on its axis, you will see the rod wobble if the ends of the nut are not parallel. Mine has absolutely no observable eccentricity.

For my Bi-Pod, I removed the standard steel pointed tips, and screwed on the "bayonet" from a quick connect adaper to replace the points. These are non magnetic, and have served me very well for the past year. They step in soil, rock, and gravel very well, and hold as well as points.

I love this setup.

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