Nate The Surveyor
Well-Known Member
I saw Jim Frames little holes in the casting of the LS. With cable around it.
And, After a good bit of thinking, I came up with this:
Make another Puck adapter, to go from 5/8"x11" to 1/4" threads. Make it the same dimensions, up and down. Make it out of steel. Weld a plate of 1/8" steel to it, that is about 4" diameter. Weld it on so it goes OVER the Puck adapter, so it's up and down dimension remains the same, as the stock one.
Screw the new Puck adapter, with plate into the T2. Drill and tap the plate, so that an allen screw, fine threads goes into the plate, between the casting plates of the T2, but does not touch the T2.
Carefully file the threads off the Allen screw, for the PORTION that sticks up, under the T2, and catches on the casting threads. (So it won't bite into the T2 casting)
(Please note, that the puck adapter that Javad sells are pretty complex little gadgets. Aluminum body, and steel insert, with 1/2" thread, or something like this!)
Drill a 3/8" hole in the outer portion of the plate.
Assembly:
Screw the new puck on to the T2.
Screw the Allen screw in.
(This makes the new puck un-removable from the T2, without an allen wrench, proper size.) Cover the Allen screw with putty and paint the same color as my locking adapter.
Place locking cable through the 3/8" hole in the Plate, and around around and through a tripod leg. And, down on to the Trapper's anchor, or screw in anchor, below the tripod.
Now, the whole works are difficult to remove, without special tools, or a key.
Install an auto alarm, in a metal custom box, and hanging on the tripod. With external key. Motion sensitive. 20" delay, so you can get the key into it, to turn it off and on.
This should do it for the T2.
The T2 now has to have it's own padded bag, that includes that base to it.
These are just my musings. Can you see anything wrong with it? Maybe signal reflection from the new plate.
N
And, After a good bit of thinking, I came up with this:
Make another Puck adapter, to go from 5/8"x11" to 1/4" threads. Make it the same dimensions, up and down. Make it out of steel. Weld a plate of 1/8" steel to it, that is about 4" diameter. Weld it on so it goes OVER the Puck adapter, so it's up and down dimension remains the same, as the stock one.
Screw the new Puck adapter, with plate into the T2. Drill and tap the plate, so that an allen screw, fine threads goes into the plate, between the casting plates of the T2, but does not touch the T2.
Carefully file the threads off the Allen screw, for the PORTION that sticks up, under the T2, and catches on the casting threads. (So it won't bite into the T2 casting)
(Please note, that the puck adapter that Javad sells are pretty complex little gadgets. Aluminum body, and steel insert, with 1/2" thread, or something like this!)
Drill a 3/8" hole in the outer portion of the plate.
Assembly:
Screw the new puck on to the T2.
Screw the Allen screw in.
(This makes the new puck un-removable from the T2, without an allen wrench, proper size.) Cover the Allen screw with putty and paint the same color as my locking adapter.
Place locking cable through the 3/8" hole in the Plate, and around around and through a tripod leg. And, down on to the Trapper's anchor, or screw in anchor, below the tripod.
Now, the whole works are difficult to remove, without special tools, or a key.
Install an auto alarm, in a metal custom box, and hanging on the tripod. With external key. Motion sensitive. 20" delay, so you can get the key into it, to turn it off and on.
This should do it for the T2.
The T2 now has to have it's own padded bag, that includes that base to it.
These are just my musings. Can you see anything wrong with it? Maybe signal reflection from the new plate.
N