A follow up post. Michael Gluting contacted me, and said basically "Sorry, we'll get you a long point out soon".
Well, I have done that to my clients before too, so I understand. However, I did make my own:
View attachment 6380
It's an 8" long sharpened spike. With a large flat washer.
And, in critiquing my own work, I have this to say.
I wish it were tapered, and went from a small sharp point, Like the standard stock point, up to about 1" or 1-1/4" dia.
Tapered would make it get tighter in the soil, as it goes down. This would make it tighter in the soil. You could press on one side, or the other to plumb it. Also, this brings up another point. I wish the LS had a little scale on the bottom of it, in tenths and hundredths. I carry a plumb bob.
IF I am doing a stakeout, and I press the LS on monopod, into the soil, and it falls off plumb, I use my plumb bob to determine the actual location, (Usually a fully verified shot) where the shot was taken. Then, I use the "Foreward, Backward, left right" to set the corner. I always re observe the SET monument. (Old and good habit).
So, I have learned this:
I'd like a POINT for the monopod, that is ALUMINUM. Tapered. With a screw in replaceable metal point. It could be ribbed, or smooth.
and, the aluminum part, could be 7-10" long. And, built into the aluminum point, is a spot for placing the foot, and pressing it into the soil.
IF the tapered aluminum part were made with a scale in the bottom part, that would be neat too. Again, tenths, and hundredths.
IF the tapered aluminum part were semi-square, or fluted, the scale could be in the fluted parts, where the markings would not wear too fast.
You know how it is. You have a good idea, then a better one, then a better one....
Keep up the good work!
Nate
